Rolex Submariner 5512 "Gilt T25" No COSC - 29.000€

Introduced in 1959, the four-digit Rolex Submariner marked a significant evolution in the brand’s line of professional dive watches. It was the first Submariner to feature crown guards, a design improvement that protected the winding crown from accidental damage, a feature that would become standard in all subsequent Submariner models.

The reference 5512 was produced alongside the Submariner 5513, with the main difference being the 5512’s COSC-certified chronometer movement.

Over its production span, which lasted until approximately 1978, the Submariner 5512 underwent several dial variations. Early models featured gilt dials with radium luminescence, while later versions transitioned to matte dials with tritium markings, reflecting evolving safety regulations. These dial changes, along with variations in font and depth ratings, make the 5512 highly collectible today.

Unlike the 5513, which remained a non-chronometer model, the 5512 was more exclusive due to its stricter certification standards.

This 1965 model has the very rare distinction of featuring a gilt dial (with tritium) of exceptional beauty, without the “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” inscription. The aluminum bezel insert has developed a superb grey-blue patina, adding even more character to the watch.